My S body

id deffo get someone that knows what theyre doing to do it(i have no idea if Ez knows how to fill a VLSD with weld lol)

Nah I dont, iv seen inside one, has a plate welded across all the gears.
Tbh I might buy one already done and keep my oem one

ezza wrote:

Tbh I might buy one already done and keep my oem one

^this

Any Updates Dude?

Its off road atm, cant afford to run it right now.

going to sort a daily then we'l see what happens

It's ashame it's come to that now bud, can completely understand where your coming from though man !

lets take off from where i left it last time, quick catch up in no particular order;

* Didnt sort a daily, just started walking to work.

* took it to a drift day: a) rubbed through arch loom with wheel
b) rear tyre exploded ripping off skirt and exposing all sorts of rust issues

So yesterday i started working on it again, started cutting out all the rotten metal so its back to healthy solid metal for welding, and started prepping it for the rear overfenders (which i dont 100% have yet but i am 100% getting some), they will be 50mm to cope with the 12j rears i will be building.

anyway:

Its been a LONG time since the drive looked like this, lol



basically had to cut the area out where spats would go, once welded i think il get spats now





I had to take the tail lights out ti get the rear bumper off, the seals had decayed into what i can only describe as a thick tar like glue, needless to say they were a BASTARD to get out, im yet to find out if this is a common problem or im just unlucky



I was glad to see that the rear bumper wasnt hiding any oxide horrors like iv seen in so many s body build threads, though i do need to get the plat support tacked back on:



Started grinding the paint back to see where the rot stops, turns out it hadnt spread that far on the arch itself:



Cut the rust out the skirt was hiding:



Then the prep for the overs (more cutting to be done, gunna go higher up):







Once iv finished cutting the outer skin tabs will be welded to the inner skin tabs forming a new higher wheel well:

Ballsy Cutting The Arches Up!

Will Be So Worth It Though, Once You Get The 12's On.

Nice Work On The Rust Removal.

nice work cant wait to see it on 12's =O

have the sleeve's on the HSD's gone rusty?? looks like it.

neither can I, im exited!!

still got the other side to do yet.

Yeah its like a light powdering of surface rust, when i saw it i was like WTF!?!?! but it litterally brushes off when you touch them, i still might throw some copper grease on them to stop it getting deeper, there zinc plated to stop rust so they should be ok but its best to be on the safe side incase i want to go lower (prob will when i get the mid box off and fark the back box off)

and i need to sort the calipers out, the mad tyte JdM red does my head in!

Steering rack gaiters or motorbike inner tube an cable ties cover the threaded part of the coilovers and keeps them protected and clean!

tesh wrote:

Steering rack gaiters or motorbike inner tube an cable ties cover the threaded part of the coilovers and keeps them protected and clean!

but also seels any moisture etc inside

just regular lithium grease/alternative grease and regular check ups

yeah man if i was you i'd grease them up a LICKLE!

so what wheels you goin for 12" on then?

the works, i measured the ones im using from face to inner edge and thats 6 inches, so i can get a 6" lip on there!!! I got quoted 175 each for 5" lips so im guessing i may have to save up another month haha

i wanna see this at pod flossin

Small words update, no pics yet.

new fusebox/loom is in the post

should be getting something else off the list today too, il post pics when i do

Well looks like the guy has dropped out of selling me the overfenders

anyway been doing some more research,

This is how my setup SHOULD look if my maths are right (iv gone over it a few tiimes) If i drop a 6" lip on the rears they will be 18x12 et13 and if I stick with the fronts for the time being as 9.5J and space them out to -10 this is how it will look with 30mm front overs and bowed 50mm rears:



Apparently the front fender rest just on the tyre and it drifts just fine like that with the right caster.

camber:
front -4 deg
rear -1.5 deg

some mad work going on here ezz cant wait to see this finished

Yes yes, no fucking around.
This is gonna look deeeeep

why did that seller pull out like few days just before?

he didnt technically pull out yet, he just hasnt got back to me, last contact was he had my number and was coming past birmingham on the way to scotland, he said he would txt when he knows what time he'l be near, nothing

Well considering you were paying asking price he had nothing to loose, oh well see how it goes.

yeah, i noticed on the for sale thread though someone offered him swaps with some parts and he said he may be interested, this was before i started pming him though.

i dunno man

Anyway found this sweet ass script for working out your wheel specs when getting wider lips.

wheel calculator

Courtosy of 'stu_' off of sxoc (will remove upon request)

figured im going to go for 3.5 inch dish at the front and 5 at the rear, not 6, 6 would be sweet but i got my measurements wrong, 6" lip would give me 13J which Im not sure i could get 245's onto